Take normal safety precautions when working with timber products. Wear gloves to avoid splinters and a face mask when cutting to avoid the inhalation of dust. Always wear goggles when using circular saws, drills or sanders and always use an RCD device when using any power tools outside.
Fixings
All Rubadeck boards should be fixed or secured using recognised quality products. We recommend the use of Trim Head screws to fix deck boards and bolts or structural screws to secure newel posts or structural elements of the deck.
The raw material and the type of coating to protect these from corrosion are vital. This is why we recommend Trim Head Screws for the best results. If galvanised fixings are used they should be of the hot dipped variety to help avoid corrosion. We do not recommend deck clips or the use of pneumatic nail guns.
General Tips
We would advise that you loosely lay components, i.e. in particular Rubadeck non slip boards, out on the finished sub frame prior to securing them. The longer they are left to become surface dry the less the effects of shrinkage will be apparent after fixing them. The timber can also be cut and sanded more easily when dry.
Fix the boards with corrosion resistant screws, or for the very best results use stainless steel screws. Structural fixtures and fittings should be specially coated or of hot dipped galvanised material.
It is advisable to pre-drill pilot holes near the end of boards to avoid splitting.
Deck board screw length should be 21/2 times the thickness of the deck board.
Cover your fabric weed membrane with pea shingle to maximise its life.
All cut ends and notches made to the timber components must be protected with a suitable brush-on end grain preservative to maintain the integrity of the preservative treatment.
Rubadeck non slip boards should be surface dry and laid with no less than a 5mm gap between boards (this allows for seasonal shrinkage or swelling). Maintain this gap when fitting boards around newel posts for a neat finish whilst still allowing water to ‘run off’.
Cut the top of the support post at an angle to aid water ‘run off.
Plan your deck
It is essential to plan your deck in advance and this is best done on paper. You cannot simply make up a bearer frame of any size and then expect the deck boards to fit with the required gaps between them without having to reduce the width of the boards to fit. Carefully decide on the location and the use of your deck. Decide on whether you want a sunny or shaded location and importantly whether privacy is a requirement. Decks in permanent shade could be affected by damp and consequent algae growth.
Listen to the views of your family and ensure any decking feature is not too big for your garden. Be aware that very large decks and raised decks may require planning permission. Raised decks should not be built with the deck level more than 600mm above ground level without specialist advice. When installing posts or levelling, take special care not to damage underground pipes or drainage and do not obstruct manhole covers or other services.
Plan your deck, bearing in mind, that it is the deck boarding that basically governs the size. For any deck you will need to work on the board widths at 140mm plus 5mm gaps in between.
Site Preparation
Mark out the deck area using pegs and a string line, following your plan drawing. If the ground is slightly uneven, level it off and make sure that it is firm. If laying the deck over grassed or weedy areas we recommend that turves are removed, then, a fabric weed membrane is laid over the area to prevent future growth under the Ruba-deck. If the ground is soggy or likely to become so in wet periods, spread pea shingle over the membrane to a depth of about 25mm. Your bearer frame will bed down onto the shingle and will, to a large extent, be kept off almost permanently wet ground. If you are constructing your deck on level ground further marking out is not normally required, as bearers can be laid out in the positions that they will be used.
Building the Deck: Framing
Attach a post at each end of the deck and attach a joist to each edge (or to the side of the house), using angle brackets or galvanised joist hangers and check that they are square. Fix supporting slabs at the ends of these joists, to hold them level.
Fit joist hangers (using galvanised nails or screws in every hole) along the ledger at 400mm (16 inch) intervals. Join to a further joist at the other end to form a supporting beam, parallel with the ledger. Check that the construction is square and level at all stages.
Nail noggins 400mm (16 inch) apart between the joists to strengthen and stabilize the framework.
Fit a second joist onto the end joist for further strength and join with coach bolts.
Tip: It is possible to use posts on concrete foundations or fence post bases if you wish to raise the deck.
Building the Deck: Laying the deck
The Rubadeck non slip boards are the most visible part, so take care to line up all fixings and lay straight with equal gaps between boards. You can lay the decking boards diagonally or in other shapes (e.g. herringbone), but this exposes more cut ends with risks of splitting. Always use continuous lengths if possible.
Decking boards with an end grain are best. Lay this way up for reduced warping using two galvanised nails, screws or deck clips at every joist. Use purpose made stainless steel or galvanised screws so that you’re decking is not spoilt by rust stains.
Use 6mm (¼ inch) spacers or nails on each side of the decking board to ensure consistent gaps. This is essential for ventilation and allows for expansion in wet weather.
Tip: If any boards need joining, butt together on top of joists.
Rubadeck Installation
Safety First
Take normal safety precautions when working with timber products. Wear gloves to avoid splinters and a face mask when cutting to avoid the inhalation of dust. Always wear goggles when using circular saws, drills or sanders and always use an RCD device when using any power tools outside.
Fixings
All Rubadeck boards should be fixed or secured using recognised quality products. We recommend the use of Trim Head screws to fix deck boards and bolts or structural screws to secure newel posts or structural elements of the deck.
The raw material and the type of coating to protect these from corrosion are vital. This is why we recommend Trim Head Screws for the best results. If galvanised fixings are used they should be of the hot dipped variety to help avoid corrosion. We do not recommend deck clips or the use of pneumatic nail guns.
General Tips
Plan your deck
It is essential to plan your deck in advance and this is best done on paper. You cannot simply make up a bearer frame of any size and then expect the deck boards to fit with the required gaps between them without having to reduce the width of the boards to fit. Carefully decide on the location and the use of your deck. Decide on whether you want a sunny or shaded location and importantly whether privacy is a requirement. Decks in permanent shade could be affected by damp and consequent algae growth.
Listen to the views of your family and ensure any decking feature is not too big for your garden. Be aware that very large decks and raised decks may require planning permission. Raised decks should not be built with the deck level more than 600mm above ground level without specialist advice. When installing posts or levelling, take special care not to damage underground pipes or drainage and do not obstruct manhole covers or other services.
Plan your deck, bearing in mind, that it is the deck boarding that basically governs the size. For any deck you will need to work on the board widths at 140mm plus 5mm gaps in between.
Site Preparation
Mark out the deck area using pegs and a string line, following your plan drawing. If the ground is slightly uneven, level it off and make sure that it is firm. If laying the deck over grassed or weedy areas we recommend that turves are removed, then, a fabric weed membrane is laid over the area to prevent future growth under the Ruba-deck. If the ground is soggy or likely to become so in wet periods, spread pea shingle over the membrane to a depth of about 25mm. Your bearer frame will bed down onto the shingle and will, to a large extent, be kept off almost permanently wet ground. If you are constructing your deck on level ground further marking out is not normally required, as bearers can be laid out in the positions that they will be used.
Building the Deck: Framing
Attach a post at each end of the deck and attach a joist to each edge (or to the side of the house), using angle brackets or galvanised joist hangers and check that they are square. Fix supporting slabs at the ends of these joists, to hold them level.
Fit joist hangers (using galvanised nails or screws in every hole) along the ledger at 400mm (16 inch) intervals. Join to a further joist at the other end to form a supporting beam, parallel with the ledger. Check that the construction is square and level at all stages.
Nail noggins 400mm (16 inch) apart between the joists to strengthen and stabilize the framework.
Fit a second joist onto the end joist for further strength and join with coach bolts.
Tip: It is possible to use posts on concrete foundations or fence post bases if you wish to raise the deck.
Building the Deck: Laying the deck
The Rubadeck non slip boards are the most visible part, so take care to line up all fixings and lay straight with equal gaps between boards. You can lay the decking boards diagonally or in other shapes (e.g. herringbone), but this exposes more cut ends with risks of splitting. Always use continuous lengths if possible.
Decking boards with an end grain are best. Lay this way up for reduced warping using two galvanised nails, screws or deck clips at every joist. Use purpose made stainless steel or galvanised screws so that you’re decking is not spoilt by rust stains.
Use 6mm (¼ inch) spacers or nails on each side of the decking board to ensure consistent gaps. This is essential for ventilation and allows for expansion in wet weather.
Tip: If any boards need joining, butt together on top of joists.